Tuesday, November 13, 2012

more parts...

A buddy called this morning and needed a ride to Alpine.  Just so happened I needed more parts for the barn so it gave me an excuse to zip north.  I was going to use T1-11 plywood for the siding but decided to try a composite product.  http://www.lpcorp.com/smartside/panel/   $20 for a 4x8 and looks just like T1-11...and it comes already primed.  T1-11 is $36 per un-primed sheet.  I'm gambling on technology... 49,69,46,0,B,0

9 comments:

bigfoot said...

looks like Masonite to me,,,better caulk it then paint it up on all edges, or it wont last many years.

da Foot

Quercus Lobata said...

Hardboard siding is what you have. It is a decent product. You will notice that it isn't as thick as T-111. T-111 is 5/8inch. The hardboard depending on brand is close to 1/2 inch. Thus it isn't as strong. That means the framing to support it needs to be adequate. T-111 can be put on 2ft center framing and it will not bow or wave after a number of years. Hardboard siding can be used on 2ft centers, but 16 inch is better.
Hardboard siding also needs more maintenance. T-111 can be let go for many years without being painted and it will hold up. Hardboard should be painted, depending on sun exposure and climate every 4 years at the longest. The primer on the hardboard will last quite a while, but get it painted asap. I have always used a solid acrylic stain on the hard board with good results. Olympic and Behr make good products that are reasonable in price. T-111 holds up better with an semi transparent oil based siding stain. Olympic used to make one, not sure if they still do. The nice thing about semitransparent stains is that they breath a bit. Thus moisture doesn't get trapped behind the finish like with paint. It is much easier to re-coat if you don't have to scrape off old finish.

I noticed you ran your framing horizontal. That is not really a good method for hardboard siding. The lap joints need to be nailed approx 6 inches on center min to keep them weather tight. The field can be 12 inches on center. With your framing horizontal, you may want to block between the rails on the lap joints (every 4ft). That way you can get the correct nailing. You can toenail the blocks between the rails.
Also be sure to use if you are hand nailing hot dipped galvanized nails. They hold just a bit better then the smooth galvanized.

I have been in the construction industry for over 40 years.

John Wells said...

Lobata...thanks for the tips.

Quercus Lobata said...

Your very welcome. I really enjoy your blog!

Chris Miller said...

This is the same siding that will come on our Derksen buildings that we're setting up for the homestead out there. We too are banking on the technology, but plan to put a huge wrap around porch on there to keep the sun off of it, and we might eventually look at putting stucco over the top of it.

Hopefully it works out for all of us. I like steel siding but Derksen on't use steel siding AND a plywood layer underneath and i just don't like that.

Chris Miller
Our180.com - One Family's Journey To Finding True Happiness

LPSmartSide said...

Hey John,

Nice blogsite ... really love the scenery shown in your photos ... truly a fine Field Lab. Ben looks very happy too.

Thanks for mentioning LP SmartSide and including a link to the website. It's an engineered wood product that withstands harsh weather elements and is treated to help resist fungal decay and termites. And it's designed for easy maintenance.

Best wishes to you on all your adventures! Patrick

Karl Katzke said...

Hey, John, one thing about the cement board siding is that it's very frangible. It cracks or fractures easily. This is less so if it is backed by something like OSB. If I remember correctly, you occasionally get high winds... The cement board will fracture in high winds instead of flex, and any windblown objects will punch right through the cement board, blowing the rest of it apart as it goes.

You got the special saw blade or pneumatic shears you need to cut it, right? Set your nail gun to a depth where it's not going to punch all the way through... Leave the nail head a tad proud and then caulk it.

anotherkindofdrew said...

Hey there John. Just wanted to follow upon this post and let you know I totally approve of your us of LP SmartSide. We did the entire exterior of our tiny house - www.tiny revolution.us - in SmartSide with SilverTech. We primed first with a barn/shed rated primer and then a coat of standard exterior paint by Behr. We did caulk our nail holes as well as the overlap edges (and then touched up with paint) and have been very pleased. I think you'll be quite satisfied even with the extreme heat your material will be subjected to.

Allen Hare said...

We just had part of our home's siding in Hardi siding. The stuff is heavy and strong, but I wasn't aware of cracking and fracturing issue. Will be keeping a close eye on it. Looking forward to seeing how well yours holds up to the elements.